Colombia Origin Trip: Sourcing Speciality Coffee - Day 3

Welcome to Steve's personal blog from his origin trip to Colombia, where he spent 10 days travelling the country sourcing speciality coffee.

His blog covers his thought and feelings throughout and introduces you to some of the most amazing people/organisations that make up the coffee industry.

Day 3 – Wednesday 11th May

Another early start for breakfast but even earlier for me as my brain has decided not to sleep past 4:30am during my time in Colombia.

A lovely breakfast at Seven Inns overlooking the amazing city of Medellin. A quick facetime with the team back in Sheffield and away we headed. This morning's agenda was a visit to Racafe’s dry mill in Medellin and some cupping.

After a short drive we arrived at the mill. After being cleared by security, we were in. First impressions, wow, a huge facility with mountains of coffee. I’d never seen a dry mill and was fascinated on how they process the parchment coffee into the green beans I know and love.

The set up was incredible and well thought out each stage was mechanically automated but still incredible. The parchment goes into silos and then through a machine which removes the bean from the parchment, then it gets sorted by density, screen size and even colour to make sure he beans are consistent and uniformed.

Once the beans were ready they were then weighed out into 70kg’s sacks and sewed up ready to head to port. It was great to see this whole process as it was the last thing in the coffee journey I’d not really witnessed.

After the mill tour the Racafe team put on a coffee cupping, at last, my first proper cupping in Colombia. Unfortunately, due to covid we used takeaway cups rather then straight off the spoon a la traditional cuppings but this didn’t stop it being a great experience. We cupped coffees from the local area and all were delicious, another tough morning in the office.

From the mill we headed to the airport to take our internal flight down to Neiva. We got to the airport in good time and breezed through check in and security, domestic airports are fantastic. After a short wait wwe were called to board and then I saw our plane. It wasn’t tiny but it was a twin propeller, I’ve never flown in anything quite this small so I was rather excited.

The flight was a little bumpy but the views out the window were once again magical, so much lush, thick greenery. The flight was only just over an hour so once we were up, it was time to come back down.

From the airport we picked up two hire cars and headed on a short (when I say short I really mean seven hours) drive to Tolima. With Hernan and Ivan from Racafe behind the wheels, water and snacks in hand we set off.

After a lovely two hour stint on straight smooth quick highways we stopped at a roadside restaurant for lunch. Rice, beans and a tasty bit of flank steak, at least I think it was steak, could have been anything really but it tasted great.

We set off again and continued our journey. We exited the highway and went towards the mountains, these roads were not quite as well maintained as the highway. For the next 5 hours, I honestly don’t know if we got above 30 kph. Pot holes, rubble tracks, sand tracks, parts of road missing, subsidence, boulders in the way and not to mention driving round the side of a mountain with 1000 meter falls if you mess up, this drive was intense.

It's tough going in the back as you are jolted about constantly but with all that being said, the scenery, the views are just incredible. What a beautiful country. I have to give a massive shout out to both Hernan and Ivan, the way they handled the cars in such difficult driving conditions, bravo gents, bravo.

After the seven-and-a-bit-hour drive, we arrived in Tolima and met the Head of the Asopep cooperative Camille for dinner. Fried plantain and chicken salad followed by slowly smoked then seared belly pork. Salty, juicy, full of flavour, beautiful. I loved the way the meat looked hanging over the wood fired bbq, but I think if you were a more delicate soul, you may not have fancied it.

Camille then introduced us Santiago, a young 17 year old who was learning to become a barista. We brewed us up a blend of Cold brew and drip filter coffee, this is not something I’ve tried before but I was delighted with the result. Locally grown, locally roasted, locally brewed specialty coffee, mega!

After this we left Camille and headed a short drive into Planadas and to our hotel for the next two nights. I have to say, Hotel Coffee, Planadas, I was very pleased to see you. 

Off to bed as its another early start tomorrow…

Steve Hampshire

Head of Coffee